Goodbye 'nifty-fifty'

The ‘nifty-fifty’ - that ubiquitous ‘standard’ lens - comes from the days when 50mm became the ‘normal’ lens for 35mm film cameras. Normal meant equivalent to the diagonal of the film format so, strictly speaking it should not have been 50 at all, but more like 43mm. Almost all manufacturers though produced 50mm lenses and marketed them as ‘standard’ lenses, with only the occasional 45mm popping up,

50mm has a lot going for it. A simple optical formula and high sales volumes meant these were easy and cheap to produce and usually (but not always) achieved spectacular image quality and fast maximum apertures. This started in a time before zoom lenses that were both affordable and of decent quality existed, and hence the ‘nifty-fifty’s were knocked out in tremendous volume.

This meant, and sometimes still means, that very often the basic 50mm f/1.8 or f/2.0 was/is the cheapest lens in a manufacturers range, yet offers outstanding image quality. Today you can find ‘kit’ zoom lenses for less than the price of a 50mm, but there is no comparison in terms of quality or speed.

You can also find more exotic and expensive f/1.2 and f/1.4 versions, and over the years I have owned a few of these, including a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AiS (gorgeous) and later a 58mm f/1.4G (expensive). But today, I don’t own one at all. Although I do have one zoom that covers that range, I find I am most often using that at 24 or 80mm for most of the work that I do.

So why is that? Well, the ‘standard’ focal length is said (arguably) to cover approximately the same field of view as human vision. In other words, when I take an image at this focal length, or thereabouts, the camera records the scene pretty much as a person would if they stood at that same point. Now, I think this works great for some types of imagery, for example street, reportage and documentary work. Here, the photographer is very often seeking to record a scene with people interacting, either with each other or objects such as tools or machinery. We actually want to put the viewer in the position to view the scene as they would as if they were physically there.

The narrative in these types of images comes from the subjects’ facial expressions and the objects around them. All this tells the story, by, for example, making us smile, frown or wonder what is happening, what just happened, or what happened next. It actually helps that we are literally recording a moment in time as a bystander might have witnessed it. Deviating away from that ‘normal’ view of the world can actually become a distraction.

But, for me, when I am shooting a landscape, I am not aiming just to record what is there, I am not trying to reproduce the scene. Instead, I aim to interpret the scene in my own way, and present it to the viewer based on what I feel at the time. So, I want to be able to create compositions that emphasise some elements and de-emphasise others, that demonstrate scale, that connect the foreground to the middle to the far, that add drama, or a sense of calm. I don’t necessarily, and only rarely, want to create a record of what anyone standing in that same spot would see.

So good-bye, nifty-fifty.

Perspective Explained

Perspective and the effect focal length has on it is something many photographers don’t always seem to fully understand, at least in my experience. Often there is a belief that having a wide-ranging zoom gives you access to different perspectives, which, strictly speaking, is not the case.

Let’s start with this example of a situation we are probably all familiar with this, and is a common perspective 'problem', photographically speaking:

imagine you are trying to take a picture of a multi-story building across a city street. You probably use a wide angle lens (or the wide angle end of your zoom) and you tilt the camera upwards, to get the whole building in the composition.

In the resulting image, the building seems to lean away, because the top of the building is further away, and so appears smaller, relative to the bottom of the building which the camera is much closer to (sometimes called perspective distortion, but it's really just...well, perspective).

So lets suppose you decide to move to a more distant point-of-view. In order to keep the same or similar composition as before, you now switch to a telephoto lens. As you are now further away, the subject-to-camera distances to the top and the bottom of the building are more similar, and so the building does not appear to lean as much (or at all, if you are far enough away).

So what happens to the building now if we stay where we are, but refit our wide angle lens? Of course our composition is altered due to the increased field-of-view, and the building looks smaller in the frame. But the building still doesn't lean - because our point-of-view hasn't changed since the telephoto shot, even though we are now using the same lens as when we were close to it.

Changing lens has not altered the perspective - because we already fixed the perspective ‘distortion’ by moving further away. If we crop this image down to match the composition we took with our telephoto, both images will have identical composition and perspective, the latter being because we didn't change our point-of-view.

You can test this yourself by:

  1. Take a picture with a wide angle lens.

  2. Without changing position, change to a telephoto lens, or zoom in, and take another picture.

  3. Now take the first picture and crop it to roughly match the composition in the second picture.

You will notice that the telephoto and cropped wide-angle images look the same. The relative sizes of elements of the scene and the relationships between them look exactly the same.

Below is a quick example I made using Artemis Directors Viewfinder on my phone. The first two are taken from the same spot, first simulating a wide angle lens and the second simulating a mild telephoto lens.

16mm.jpg

Wide Angle

Equivalent to 24mm lens

50mm.jpg

Telephoto

Equivalent to 75mm lens

16mm-cropped.jpg

Wide Angle Crop

A crop from the wide angle image to approximately match the telehoto shot above - notice how the relative positions and sizes of all the elements in the scene are identical to the telephoto shot.

To summarise:

  1. Camera position relative to the scene is the only factor that determines perspective (point-of-view) i.e. relative size and position of objects in the scene. It is also one element that determines our composition.

  2. Lens focal length is another element that determines our composition (field-of-view) i.e. what is included/excluded from the scene, but does not alter perspective.

Point 2 is why I personally prefer primes to zooms for creative work. With zooms, you can get lazy, by standing in one spot and zooming in and out to alter the composition, but may not think as much about changing your perspective.

Disclaimer

Unless I explicit state otherwise, I do not receive any incentive or inducement from the vendor/distributor of any of the products mentioned.

However, some of the links provided may be affiliate links from which I may earn a small commission which helps me to run this website.

Samyang 24mm f/3.5 TS review - part 1

When I first got my Fujifilm GFX50R, at about the same time I got the 45mm and the 120mm macro lenses, but I hesitated over the 23mm lens, one because of it’s cost, but also because I was not sure how much use I would have for for such a wide lens (18mm equivalent).

I hired a 23mm for about 6 weeks from Hireacamera, and this convinced me that this focal length was very useful to me on MF, especially when using the 65:24 (aka ‘XPan’) crop on the camera, and that the lens was of exceptional quality (although I did have a faulty copy that was exchanged - but then hire kit does tend to have a hard life).

Fujfilm GF 23mm on GFX50R in 65:24 ‘Xpan’ mode

However, with the price of the lens having risen back to it’s list price and all discounts seeming to have disappeared, plus my opportunities to use it being very limited, I decided to look at alternates. There was also in the back of my mind that Fujifilm were planning to release a 30mm lens during 2020, and this might be a better fit for me as well as being potentially much cheaper.

I had an on-going project that would definately benefit from the wider lens though, and long story short, I ended up buying a Samyang 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift lens in Nikon F fit, and a Gobe mount adapter. To put this in context, I could have bought four Samyang lenses and the mount adapter for about the same price as the Fujifilm lens. Of course, there are some notable compromises:

  • Manual focus (not really an issue for landscapes)

  • Inferior image quality at large apertures (not really an issue for landscapes)

  • Stop-down metering (not really an issue for landscapes)

  • Plasticky build, when compared to the native GFX lenses

  • Mount adapter introduces another complication/variable

  • Size - it’s a little longer than the 23mm, even before you add the mount adapter

On the up side though, the Samyang does have some positives:

  • Potential to use a limited amount of tilt and shift

  • Rotating mount and rotating tilt section means tilt and shift axis are independent

  • By most accounts, very good image quality when stopped down to f/8 - f/11

  • Can be easily adapted to use on my Fujifilm X cameras as well

As mentioned, I find this focal length really useful in the ‘XPan’ mode on the GFX. It’s roughly equivalent to a 90mm lens on a 6x17 panoramic film camera (incidently the GF 45mm similarly equates to 180mm on 617).

I hoped I would have the ability to add up to a degree of tilt (all that is usually needed for landscapes), which would make getting the whole image sharp from front-to-back easy. I previously used PC-E lenses on Nikon full frame and cropped-sensor DSLRs, but I did find them very tricky to adjust and wanted to see how easy tilt/shift lenses would be to use with the GFX’s electronic manual focus aids.

Tilt-shift lenses have an image circle that exceeds the size of the film or sensor they are intended to be used with. This is to allow for the shifting of the image, but as the Samyang is intended for use with 35x24mm film, not a 44x33mm sensor, the results would be a bit of an unknown quantity.

I’ll be following this up with a further post once I have had a bit of time to evaluate the Samyang lens on GFX.

Disclaimer

Unless I have explicitly stated otherwise, I actually own or have owned all the products mentioned, and further more, I purchased them myself without any incentive or inducement from the vendor/distributor.

However, some of the links provided may be affiliate links from which I earn a small commission which helps me to run this website.

Bargain wildlife lens, thanks Fringer!

I’ll be honest, I tend to prefer primes lenses over zooms, especially long telephoto zooms. May be that just comes down to having previously used prime telephotos (I owned Nikon 300mm f/2.8 and 600mm f/4 for a while).

But, a few years ago when I switched to Fujifilm from Nikon, there really was no option in the long telephoto space, apart from Fuji’s own 100-400mm lens, unless I wanted to try an adapted manual focus lens, which I didn’t. That wasn’t really a problem since part of the reason to change was reducing the weight of my gear, so I plumped for the Fujifilm lens.

But, I’ve never been totally enamoured with the 100-400mm. Now, don’t get me wrong, this is an excellent lens, I just felt that a prime would deliver better imagery out at the long end, and that is mainly where I use this lens, at 400mm. With most tele-zooms, sharpness and contrast do tend to fall away at that long end.

Enter the Fringer EF-FX Pro II adapter. This neat little adapter, about the size of a typical 1.4x tele-converter, allows a Canon EF lens to be attached to a Fujifilm X series camera, whilst retaining auto-focus and exposure. The Pro version adds a nicely detented ring which can control the Canon lens aperture and feeds back the aperture information to the camera body. It all works very well.

The possibility to use a Canon telephoto opens up a world of options, my original intention being to hire super telephotos, or even a tilt-shit lens, as and when required. But when a used Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 L USM lens came up in mint condition at a very reasonable price, I thought I would give it a try. For those who don’t know, this lens is an old and simple optical design dating from the ‘90’s, but is very well regarded for it’s portability, sharpness and solid construction.

Of course the elephant-in-the-room is the lack of image stabilisation. I guess there are two answers here: one, I personally don’t value this so much as mostly my subjects for this lens will be moving, and two, if you really must have this then either go for a Fujifilm X-H1 body (which has in-body stabilisation) or a different Canon lens with IS (note although IS is supported by the Fringer adapter, only the lenses tested by them are supported - there is a list on their website).

Milo helps with testing the Canon 400mm EF f/5.6 L USM & Fringer EF-FX Pro II, Fujfilm X-T2 (straight out of camera jpeg, cropped to 1:1, handheld).

Milo helps with testing the Canon 400mm EF f/5.6 L USM & Fringer EF-FX Pro II, Fujfilm X-T2 (straight out of camera jpeg, cropped to 1:1, handheld).

Another factor that might put people off is the smallish aperture and the ability to get those super-soft backgrounds so your main subject ‘pops’ out of the image. Well, yes, it’s very easy to get that blurry background with a long f/2.8 or f/4 lens, but the downside is depth of field is often so shallow, you will need to absolutely nail focus, not just on your subject, but on a particular part of the your subject. Sometimes this is such a challenge you will find yourself stopping down to give yourself some margin for error in focus anyway.

But even if limited to f/5.6 as your widest aperture, you can get a nice effect: in the image above I got down low to maximise the separation between subject and background. The cat is about 6 meters away, behind him is a wall a further 75cm away. It also helps that the wall was thrown into shadow. Fortunately his face is fairly parallel to the sensor plane, but look how out of focus that extended paw is!

Bottom line is I was impressed with the image quality of the Canon 400mm, and AF performance was very good with the Fringer adapter on the Fujifilm X-T2 (it was also good with the Canon 85mm f/1.8 and 100mm f/2.8 USM macro I tried).

However, to be fair, in my comparative tests the Fujifilm 100-400mm stood up very well indeed. So, I wouldn’t necessarily choose between these options purely on image quality, both are capable of very good image quality. But, if you want to use longer focal lengths, the Fringer adapter unlocks a world of options not available in the Fujifilm system.

Personally, I preferred the handling of the Canon lens. Weight wise, there is little in it once you add in the 140g Fringer - the Canon just edges it but only by about 60g. However, the longer slimmer body of the Canon to my mind is easier to grip and the wider spacing of your hands seems to make it easier to hold steady. To me, it feels more wieldy and perhaps would be a better option for birds-in-flight, for example.

At first sight, the Fujifilm looks more compact….

At first sight, the Fujifilm looks more compact….

….but with hoods extended and at 400mm, there is not much in it.

….but with hoods extended and at 400mm, there is not much in it.

The Canon wins on build, it feels more sturdy because of the metal lens hood, the solid lens barrel (i.e. no extension) and the overall ‘cleaner’ design (i.e. less switches). That’s not to say the Fujifilm isn’t well built, it is, but it just doesn’t feel like it would take as much of a beating as the Canon would. Not much of surprise, given they are close in weight but the Fujifilm has 21 elements to the Canon’s mere 7.

Of course, as mentioned the Canon has no IS, and minimum focus is quite far out at 3.5m (by contrast the Fujfilm gets comfortably under 2m). It also will not auto-focus on the Fringer adapter with the Canon 1.4x extender. The standard lens foot has no arca dovetail and only one mounting bolt, but that is pretty common, indeed the same can be said of the Fujfilm 100-400mm.

For frequent tripod use I would swop out the standard foot for an iShoot replacement (£20), that, despite being no bigger than the Canon foot, has two threaded mounting holes plus a hole for an alignment pin, and also has an arca dovetail on the base. If feels well made and seems solid on first impressions.

The Canon lens come as new with a nice padded bag, and most good used one’s should include that as well. It still accommodates the lens with the Fringer adapter attached.

So to conclude, if you are lusting after longer lenses for your Fujifilm, then for the cost of the Fringer (£300) and a used Canon 400mm (from £500 - £700), you are looking at a considerable saving over a new Fujifilm 100-400, and potentially a small saving on a used one, plus you open an array of Canon lenses for your Fuji camera.

In the end, I did sell my Fujifilm 100-400, with enough to fund the Canon lens and the Fringer, plus a small profit on the deal.

Disclaimer

Unless I explicit state otherwise, I do not receive any incentive or inducement from the vendor/distributor of any of the products mentioned.

However, some of the links provided may be affiliate links from which I may earn a small commission which helps me to run this website.